Chapter 2

 

            INSECTS FORMERLY USED AS FOOD BY INDIGENOUS POPULATIONS

                                      OF NORTH AMERICA NORTH OF MEXICO

 

Taxonomic Inventory

 Taxa and life stages consumed

 

Coleoptera

Bruchidae (seed beetles)

Algarobius (= Bruchus) spp., larvae, pupae

Neltumius (= Bruchus) spp., larvae, pupae

 

Cerambycidae (long-horned beetles)

Ergates spiculatus Leconte, larva

Monochamus maculosus Hald., larva

Monochamus scutellatus Leconte, larva

Neoclytus conjunctus Leconte, larva

Prionus californicus Mots., larva, adult

Rhagium lineatum Olivier, larva

Xylotrechus nauticus Mann., larva

 

Curculionidae (snout beetles, weevils)

Rhynchophorus cruentatus (Fabr.), larva

 

Dytiscidae (predaceous diving beetles)

Cybister explanatus (author?), adult

 

Scarabaeidae (scarab beetles)

Cyclocephala dimidiata Burmeister, adult

Cyclocephala villosa Burm., adult

Phyllophaga fusca Froelich, adult

Polyphylla crinita Leconte, adult

 

Miscellaneous Coleoptera

Scientific name(s) unrecorded

 

Diptera

Ephydridae (shore flies)

Ephydra cinerea Jones (= E. gracilis Packard), pupa

Ephydra macellaria Eggar (= E. subopaca Loew), pupa

Hydropyrus (= Ephydra) hians Say, pupa

 

Oestridae (warble flies, bot flies)

Hypoderma bovis Linn., larva

Oedemagena tarandi (Linn.), larva

 

Rhagionidae (snipe flies)

Atherix sp., egg masses with adult females

 

Tipulidae (crane flies)

Holorusia rubiginosa Loew, larva

Tipula derbyi Doane, larva

Tipula quaylii Doane, larva

Tipula simplex Doane, larva

 

Miscellaneous Diptera

Scientific name(s) unreported

 

Hemiptera

Belostomatidae (giant water bugs)

Lethocerus americanus Leidy, adult

 

Homoptera

Aphididae (aphids)

Hyalopterus pruni (Geoffroy) (= H. arundinis Fabr.), honeydew

 

Cicadidae (cicadas)

Diceroprocta apache (author?), nymph and adult?

Magicicada (= Cicada and Tibicen) septendecim Linn. complex, nymphs. Other periodical    cicadas (Magicicada) in the complex include M. cassini Fisher, M. septendecula Alexander & Moore, M. tredecim Walsh & Riley, M. tredecassini A. & M., and M. tredecula A. & M.

Okanagana bella Davis, nymph and adult?

Okanagana cruentifera Uhler, nymph and adult?

Platypedia areolata Uhler, nymph and adult?

 

Hymenoptera

Anthophoridae (digger bees)

Anthophorid honey

 

Apidae (honey bees, bumble bees)

Bombus appositus Cresson, larva/pupa

Bombus nevadensis Cresson, larva/pupa

Bombus terricola occidentalis Greene, larva/pupa

Bombus vosnesenskii Radoszkowski, larva/pupa

 

Cynipidae (gall wasps, etc.)

Cynipid-produced oak galls

 

Formicidae (ants)

Camponotus sp., larva, adult

Formica rufa Linn., larva/pupa/adult?

Lasius niger Linn., larva/pupa/adult?

Myrmecocystus melliger Forel, honeypots

Myrmecocystus mexicanus hortideorum McCook, honeypots

Pogonomyrmex californicus Buckley, larva/pupa/adult?

Pogonomyrmex desertorum Wheeler, larva/pupa/adult?

Pogonomyrmex occidentalis Cresson, larva/pupa/adult?

Pogonomyrmex owyheei Cole, larva/pupa/adult?

Pogonomyrmex sp., adult

 

Vespidae (paper wasps, yellowjackets, hornets)

Vespula diabolica Saussure, larva/pupa

Vespula pennsylvanica Saussure, larva/pupa

Vespula spp., larvae/pupae

 

Isoptera

Rhinotermitidae (subterranean termites)

Reticulitermes tibialis Banks

 

Miscellaneous termites

Scientific name(s) unreported

 

Lepidoptera

Arctiidae (tiger moths, etc.)

Arctia caja americana Harris, larva

 

Lasiocampidae (tent caterpillars)

Malacosoma spp., larvae

 

Megathymidae (giant skippers)

Megathymus yuccae Boisduval & Leconte, larva

 

Noctuidae (noctuids)

Heliothis zea Boddie, larva

Homoncocnemis fortis Grote, larva

Spodoptera frugiperda Smith, larva

 

Saturniidae (giant silk moths)

Coloradia pandora Blake, larva, pupa

Hyalophora (= Platysamia; = Samia) euryalus Boisduval, larva (see   Essig 1958, Arnett 1985)

 

Sphingidae (sphinx or hawk moths)

Hyles lineata Fabr., larva

Manduca sexta Johannsen (= Macrosila carolina (author?)), larva

 

Miscellaneous Lepidoptera

Scientific name(s) unreported

 

Odonata

Aeshnidae (darners)

Aeshna multicolor Hagen, nymph

 

Miscellaneous Odonata

Scientific name(s) unreported

 

Orthoptera

Acrididae (short-horned grasshoppers)

Arphia pseudonietana Thomas, adult

Camnula pellucida Scudder, adult

Melanoplus bivittatus Say, adult

Melanoplus devastator Scudder, adult

Melanoplus differentialis Thomas, adult

Melanoplus femurrubrum DeGeer, adult

Melanoplus sanguinipes Fabr. (= M. mexicanus mexicanus Suassure;   reported as M. atlanis Riley by Essig 1931), adult

Melanoplus sp.

Oedaloenotus enigma Scudder, adult

Schistocerca Shoshone Thomas (= S. venusta Scudder), adult

 

Gryllacrididae (wingless long-horned grasshoppers)

Stenopelmatus fuscus Haldeman

 

Gryllidae (crickets)

Gryllus assimilis Fabr., complex

 

Tettigoniidae (long-horned grasshoppers)

Anabrus simplex Haldeman, nymph, adult

 

Plecoptera

Perlodidae

Isoperla sp., nymph, adult

 

Pteronarcidae (giant stoneflies)

Pteronarcys californica Newport, nymph, adult

 

 

            As with indigenous populations nearly everywhere, North American Indian tribes made wide use of insects as food.  Dozens of species have been recorded or are highly suspect on the basis of distribution, abundance and ecology.  Data on the use of insects in aboriginal cultures are primarily of two types, ethnographic and archaeological, and it has been particularly necessary to draw upon the full range of methodology in North America where the original cultures have been so completely enveloped by a later European-derived culture.  Ethnographic data are derived from direct observations by anthropologists, observations by non-anthropologists (e.g., ethnohistoric accounts), memory culture, continuation of practices into the present, and inferences from ethnographic data from neighboring groups.  Sutton (1988:  1-10) points out pitfalls relative to the gathering and interpretation of each kind, and provides some insight as to why the importance of insect consumption in aboriginal societies has been under-reported and underestimated.

            Sutton points out that few of the observers were trained in anthropology, and fewer yet in the natural sciences.  Observers from European cultural backgrounds were often biased in their observations of insect consumption or disregarded it entirely.  In addition, as insects were usually processed and fragmented, they often could not be recognized by ethnographers, and so were not recorded.  As a result, Sutton concludes that it is probable that a much greater number and variety of insects were utilized by the Indians of the Great Basin than has been reported.  In addition, misidentifications appear to have been frequent, e.g., the term "locust" used interchangeably for grasshoppers, crickets and cicadas.  This affects conclusions as to seasonality, technology employed, and caloric return, and thus can lead to an underestimation of the importance of insects in the aboriginal diet and a corresponding overestimation of the importance of other dietary components.

            Relative to archaeological data, poor preservation and inadequate field and laboratory methods result in a paucity of data.  Sutton discusses reasons for this, and why even coprolite analysis is not as fruitful as might be expected.  Coprolite evidence exists for the use of several kinds of insects.  Sutton notes that insect remains are frequently encountered during flotation analyses of soil samples from features and hearths in archaeological sites, but they generally are not identified because they are considered unimportant.  Coprolites could yield much more information than has been the case to date.  "The recovery of archaeological evidence of insect use suffers most from indifference, disinterest, or ignorance on the part of archaeologists who are not attuned to the recovery of such data."  Flotation samples must be given special attention and new data recovery techniques must be employed.

            As far as known, insects never comprised the staple in any economy, but they were often critical resources that were more than an occasional addition to the diet.  Sutton notes that Great Basin investigators are now beginning to study resources in view of their seasonal availability, nutritional content, and search and processing time, but, noting the usually cursory treatment of insect consumption by anthropologists, he states (p. 2):  "From an ecological standpoint, an understanding of, or at least a delineation of, all parts of an economic system is necessary for an understanding of the system as a whole and of its interactions with other systems."  Many components, including insects are poorly known.  Anthropologists often consider that insects are "famine food and backup resources, usually taken on an individual encounter basis," yet, Sutton states (p. 3):  "While it is probably true that insects were taken individually during the course of other activities, the overall procurement of insects appears to have been systematic and not confined to chance."  He concludes that, "insects were commonly and extensively used and that they played an important part in fulfilling the nutritive requirements of the Great Basin Indians."

            Sutton concluded that crickets, grasshoppers, shore flies, caterpillars, and ants were the most significant insect resources and they were utilized by almost every Great Basin group.  Other insects, including bees, yellowjackets, aphids, mesquite beetles, june beetles, stoneflies and lice were also eaten but in lesser quantity.  Sutton disagrees with the view that insects were mostly obtained on an "encounter" basis, stating that, "the ethnohistoric and ethnographic data indicate that considerable planning, travel, and effort was often involved in insect procurement."  Such effort suggests that aboriginal groups were knowledgeable about the seasonal and geographic availability of insects and that the insect resources were fully integrated into aboriginal economic systems.  Although fresh insects were available primarily from April to October, many accounts specify that insect foods were stored for later use, often in large quantities.  According to Sutton, "Stored insects, combined with stored plant products (with which insects were often mixed) may have formed a balanced diet providing for a comfortable winter."

            Although cost/benefit ratios for collecting most insect resources have not been determined, Sutton notes that studies have shown high return rates for Mormon crickets and grasshoppers.  Collecting and processing of insects in the Great Basin was conducted primarily by women, although in "drives" requiring the participation of many people, men, women and children probably participated.

            In summary, Sutton concludes that insects probably constituted a major rather than a minor resource in the Great Basin, and states that "Anthropologists should continue to seek elucidation of the use of insect foods, both ethnographically and archaeologically, and should consider insect foods important resources that were fully integrated into the various economies of the aboriginal Great Basin."

            The point made by Sutton that if the role of insects in North American aboriginal economies is underestimated, the role of other components is therefore overestimated and we lack an accurate understanding of the systems as a whole, is of particular interest and has wide implications.  If this is true for North America, it is probably equally true for Africa, Asia and elsewhere inasmuch as most of the early information was furnished by Europeans.  The historical record of insect consumption may be an excellent example of history distorted by being seen only through the eyes of those who wrote it.

            Several points come into focus as one peruses the North American literature:

 

            1.  Insect consumption was widespread among tribes in western North America, but not in the eastern part of the continent.  Waugh (1916) and Carr (1951) are among the few reports from east of the Mississippi River.  On the other hand, not all western tribes used insects (see Dorsey 1884, Ray 1933, Voegelin 1938, and Barnett 1939, for example).  Hoffman (1896) suggested that the Menomini did not eat insects and other "loathsome food" because they had "always lived in a country where game, fish, and small fruits were found in greater or lesser abundance," and Skinner (1910) suggests that "the universal practice of agriculture south of the Great Lakes" obviated any need for insects as food.

            The reasons suggested by Hoffman and Skinner would seem to be discounted, however, by numerous reports from the West that the Indians relished insects in the midst of abundant food resources.  Dixon (1905) states, regarding the Northern Maidu in the lower Sierra region, "Of animal food [deer, elk, rabbits, etc.] there was an abundance. . . . Yellow-jacket larvae were, however, eagerly sought, as were also angle-worms.  Grasshoppers, locusts, and crickets were highly esteemed, and in their dried condition were much used in trade."  Muir (1911), described a great variety and abundance of foods, then stated, "Strange to say, they seem to like the lake larvae [Hydropyrus hians pupae] best of all."  According to Ross (1956), despite a profusion of salmon, buffalo and vegetables, the Snake Indians resort to "the most nauseous and disgusting articles of food," such as crickets, grasshoppers and ants.

 

            2.  Insects were an integral part of the seasonal rounds of food gathering.  This is evident in many reports, but quick insight on the role of insects within the context of food gathering can be provided by quoting from the excellent and concise description by Emma Lou Davis (1962) of the seasonal activities and locations of the Mono Lake Paiute.  Mono Lake is located at the base of the Sierra Nevada, within the Upper Sonoran Life Zone at an elevation of 6,400 feet.  Davis states (p. 24):

 

            Due to this climatic variability and to the range in altitudes the area offered a wide range of seasonal foods which were attractive to hunter-gatherers.  From April through October different natural food crops matured in turn throughout the territory.  The activities of the Mono Lake Paiute, and of other aboriginal travelers and visitors, were geared to this cycle of food events.  At each season the people had different sorts of camps, in different places and with significantly different artifact assemblages.

 

            The Kuzedika had only a stone-age tool kit, [but] their culture was characterized by a number of highly developed specialties which permitted them to cope successfully with their unpredictable environment.  In common with other Basin-Plateau peoples they possessed a diversified complex of beautifully made baskets, permitting them to collect, toast and winnow tiny seeds and fine meal.

 

            They used metates and manos, mortars, stone bowls, and pestles.  With this milling equipment they could reduce hard or tough foods to an edible consistency.  They made warm fur robes by weaving twined strips of rabbit pelt into a fibre warp.  They understood how to process and store protein foods.  Most particularly, they had an encyclopedic knowledge of the ecology of which they formed a part.  They were clever at devising ways of harvesting every seed, grub and rat in their habitat.  They ate everything they could digest and knew precisely where and when it could be found and the best means of procuring it.

 

            The staffs of life of the Kuzedika were greens, roots and fruits; seeds of grasses; fly larvae [actually Hydropyrus hians pupae], pine tree caterpillars [Coloradia pandora larvae], rodents, lizards, rabbits and occasional large game.  The great winter staple was pine nuts. . . .

 

            During an average year the Paiute schedule of camping and collecting ran as follows:  In winter, the groups broke up into separate families.  The families lived either in the pine nut groves, close to their caches of nuts, or else in sheltered coves around the warmer east end of the lake.  Here they subsisted on rodents and stored foods. . . .

 

            In March, when the sun and the deer returned, Kuzedika families moved to the west end of the lake and camped on sunny, well-drained knolls near streams with gallery forests of aspens.  The first new food activities in spring were the hunting of deer and the collecting of fresh greens for which the people were starved. . . .

 

            By June groups of people moved down to the summer grass sites. . . . These meadow camps served as a base for collecting grass seeds, berries, roots and tubers.  They were also a point of departure for more distant and varied collecting activities.  Each summer the whole population migrated to the lake shores in order to gather and process fly larvae, which piled up in windrows along the beaches.  Open camps appear to have extended for miles along high strand lines at the west end of the lake, where fresh water was available.  The wealth of food near the lake attracted other people from miles around.  Even the unfriendly Washo paid regular visits to Mono Lake.  The high percentage of projectile points (some of them very large spear points) at beach sites suggests defensiveness or an armed truce. . . .

 

            In addition to its appeal as a food larder, Mono Lake basin was a cross-roads for trade and travel [and] many other people came and went through the home range of the Kuzedika.  This situation was, of course, a potential source of inter-group friction but appears only occasionally to have caused outbreaks of armed hostility.  The Paiute were not an aggressive people and territoriality was but weakly developed among these transient collectors.

 

            On alternate summers, in the early part of July, the Kuzedika and scattered groups of visitors migrated 15 miles south to the Jeffrey pine forests near Indiana Summit.  Here the caterpillars of a moth, Coloradia pandora, completed their biennial cycle and emerged to feed on the pine needles.  Smudge fires were built; circular trenches (still faintly visible) were dug around the bases of selected trees.  The trapped and stupified worms were then collected, sun-dried and stored in slab shelters, a few of which are still standing.

 

            If the year were favorable, autumn brought in the most important of all food crops:  the pine nuts.  Families worked together to amass great piles of green cones, still tightly closed to protect the contained nuts.  The cones were piled within retaining rings of stones, covered with grass, boughs and slabs of rock and left as winter stores. . . . If the harvest of pinyon nuts had been an adequate one, families built brush tipis with countersunk floors and wintered near their caches.  In the scattered winter communities people trapped small game, gambled at Nayel'we, the popular Hand Game, told myths in endless song-recitive during the long evenings and waited for the returning sun to bring another cycle of collecting.

 

            3.  Some insects undoubtedly yielded a very high energy return for the energy expended in their harvest.  Although few experimental data are available, this seems especially evident from the many vivid accounts of grasshopper and Mormon cricket "drives" (see under Orthoptera:  Acrididae and Tettigoniidae) and the large-scale harvests of shore fly pupae (Diptera:  Ephydridae) and pandora moth caterpillars (Lepidoptera:  Saturniidae).  Madsen and Kirkman (1988) describe a special, but recurring, situation in which the return rate from collection of grasshoppers washed ashore at Great Salt Lake was at least 16 times that of any local seed resource.  Madsen (1989) provides data suggesting that the return rates from Mormon crickets collected by hand exceeded those from all local plant resources and compared favorably with those from small and large game animals.  It is likely that return rates from Mormon crickets collected during the large, organized drives described by early observors would have far exceeded those that can be obtained by hand-collecting.  Simms (1984), although he makes no mention of edible insects, provides useful information on the kilocalories returned per hour of work for various Great Basin collected food resources, both plant and animal.

 

            4.  Insects, when dried, were storable for use in the future and were an important winter food.  Grasshoppers, Mormon crickets, shore fly pupae, pandora moth caterpillars, cicadas and ants were among the insects stored (e.g., Dixon 1905, Elliott 1909, Muir 1911, Steward 1941, Davis 1965, and Downs 1966, among others).

 

            5.  Insects were important items of trade among tribes (e.g., Dixon 1905, Steward 1933, J. Davis 1961), with grasshoppers, pandora caterpillars and shore fly pupae among the insects most widely traded.  Accounts of Indian attempts to trade their edible insect preparations to Whites, however, are frequently humorous (see, for example, Bidwell 1890).  Disputes concerning insect collecting rights sometimes arose among Indian tribes or individual families.  Steward (1933: 245-246), for example, cites Muir to the effect that families and tribes claimed sections of the shore at Mono Lake where the windrows of shore fly pupae washed up and disputes arose over encroachment into a neighbor's territory.  Regarding pandora caterpillars, Miller and Hutchinson (1928: 158-160) related that "...the Monos, lured by the tempting collecting grounds, had crossed the range [the Sierra Nevada] and gathered caterpillars from areas that were considered exclusive worming grounds of another tribe.  This caused a serious break in diplomatic relations between the two tribes and very nearly resulted in a great Pe-ag'gie war."

            Conversely to most reports, Heizer (1978) shows only three recorded ethnographic instances of insects traded as food items from one tribe to another in California.

            Essig's (1931) discussion is of particular interest because it is the first to provide the specific identity (scientific names) of many of the insects that were, or probably were, used as food in western North America.  His information is incorporated under the appropriate insect orders below.  Essig (1934), as did Davis (1962) and others later, extolled the intimate knowledge of the Indians about natural history, including the life cycles and habits of insects.  He says (page 181):

 

            Indians probably knew a great deal more about certain facts concerning the natural instincts and habits of insects than the white race will ever know.  The aborigines of California literally lived with their tiny six-legged brothers and liked them in more ways than one.  Apparently there were no feelings of rivalry on the part of the red men as is so often expressed to-day by the entomological economists who class insects as man's greatest rivals on this earth.  The Indians accepted nature as it was without carrying out any great schemes to replace the forests and the prairies with cultivated fields and great cities.

 

            Finally, although our discussion here is limited to food, insects were much more than food in the lives of the Indians.  Hitchcock (1962) has discussed a number of aspects in Indian culture, including the spiritual power of insects; insects as omens and symbols; their use in medicine, magic and witchcraft; influence on the growth and development of children; use of products for various purposes such as ornaments, artwork, dyes, not to mention honey and beeswax; domestication of insects of various kinds; use as food (briefly); and the Indian view of insect control.  Hitchcock, as did Essig before him, suggests that the American Indian had a much more intimate view of himself in relation to nature than we do and insects were part of the world around him.  Indians in general did not regard insects as pests in the same manner that we do.  This was partly because the Indian economy was such that insects did not make such recognizable demands on it and partly because of their spiritual and other importance.  A point made by both Hitchcock and Essig is that, in general, those groups that made the most use of insects or insect products had great knowledge about the biology and identification of their insects, a principle that we will see applies to indigenous people in other continents as well.

            DeFoliart (1991) listed more than 70 species of insects known or presumed to have been used as food by North American tribes. Included were representatives of 12 insect orders and 28 families.  DeFoliart (1994) described a number of insect foods of the American Indians and incidents showing how early whites reacted to them.  The author concluded: "As might be expected from our European cultural heritage, some early American whites looked with open disgust at the insect foods of the American Indians.  It is interesting, though, that so often . . . . these cross-cultural encounters relative to food seemed dominated by feelings of mutual tolerance, curiosity and respect and were described with a sense of humor."

            Ikeda et al (1993) reported that some 500 descendants of Miwok-speaking Native Americans live in Mariposa County, California, and that 50 percent of the families live below the federal poverty level and are unable to afford the kind of food that ensures an adequate diet.  The authors report:

 

            Some families augmented their food supply in traditional ways: 47% gathered wild berries, nuts, mushrooms and other plants; 67% said their grandparents and parents traditionally used wild plants as foods, and 81% said this knowledge had been passed on to them by their elders. . .[22% gardened, 26% fished, 14% hunted] . . . Many Miwok recalled foods their grandparents ate that they do not eat: insects such as pine tree worms, Monarch butterfly larvae and grasshoppers; animals like squirrel, Mono Lake shrimp, quail, deer, rabbit, bear and hedge hog; and plant foods such as acorn mush, pine nuts, wild vegetables and berries.  Some of these foods, particularly the insects, are not considered food by the dominant culture.  This may have influenced these Native Americans to abandon them as food sources.  

 

            Sutton (1995) reiterates the importance of insects in prehistoric diet and technology and of their procurement in determining settlement/subsistence patterns. He also re-emphasizes and expands on his 1988 criticisms of "Western bias" on the part of anthropologists, ethnographers and archaeologists in assessing the role of insects, especially as food.  In the interpretation of study results, there is an over-emphasis on male-oriented subsistence activities and "big ticket" economic animals, particularly mammals, while insects, which are not very mobile, are considered part of "gathering" which is done by women and children.  The author discusses in detail the reasons for the low archaeological "visibility" of insects. 

            See also Lowie (1909b, insects as food of the Assiniboine) and Osborne (1923, insects in coprolites).

 

                                                                               Coleoptera

 

Bruchidae (seed beetles)

Algarobius (= Bruchus) spp., larvae, pupae

Neltumius (= Bruchus) spp., larvae, pupae

 

            Sutton (1988:  57-60) notes that bruchid beetles constituted an "automatic inclusion of animal protein in processed mesquite." Three genera of bruchids common in mesquite in North America are Algarobius, Neltumius and Mimosestes (Kingsolver et al 1977: 113, Table 6-3).  There may be as many as three generations per year, and as many as 80% of the pods may be infested by the latter part of the season (Glendening and Paulsen 1955: 9; vide Sutton 1988), thus it was almost axiomatic that the bruchids would be a part of mesquite harvest.  Regarding the harvest of mesquite pods, Bell and Castetter (1937: 22-23); vide Sutton 1988: 59) observed:

 

            When stored in the form of whole or dry pods, partially pulverized, they soon became a living mass, since an insect, a species of Bruchus, was present in almost every seed.  To the Pima or any other tribe of Indians, this made little difference.  The insects were not removed but accepted as an agreeable ingredient of the flour, subsequently made from the beans.  If reduced to a fine flour soon after gathering, the larvae still remained within the beans and became a part of the meal, forming an homogenous mass of animal and vegetable matter.

 

            Hooper (1920: 357) noted that the Desert Cahuilla ate mesquite beans that were "worm eaten in spots, but regardless of this, they are all pounded together." 

            Bye (1972: 94) gives the history of the botanical collections made by Edward Palmer and John Wesley Powell and reviews the ethnobiology of the southern Paiutes, which lived in southern Utah, adjacent northern Arizona, and southern Nevada.  Relative to the mesquite, Prosopis glandulosa Torr. var. torreyana, and the screwbean, P. pubescens Benth., the fruits of which were important as food, especially the starchy inner portions and the seeds, often contained Bruchus larvae which were eaten along with the fruits.  Now that bruchid-containing pods have become unacceptable to some tribes such as the Pima and Cahuilla, infestations can be controlled by heat-treatment as is the Seri custom in Mexico (Felger 1977: 163).

            Mesquite seeds in a cached ceramic olla, or storage jar, recovered from CA-RIV-519 in southeastern California (ethnographic territory of the Desert Cahuilla, and radiocarbon dated to within the past several hundred years), showed evidence of insect activity within the bean matrix (Swenson 1984: 249).  This was probably the result of bruchid beetles infesting the beans when they were still nutritionally viable.

 

Cerambycidae (long-horned beetles)

Ergates spiculatus Leconte, larva

Monochamus maculosus Hald., larva

Monochamus scutellatus Leconte, larva

Neoclytus conjunctus Leconte, larva

Prionus californicus Mots., larva, adult

Rhagium lineatum Olivier, larva

Xylotrechus nauticus Mann., larva

 

            Essig (1931) states that the fat wood-boring cerambycid grubs, some of which measure up to 60 mm in length, were especially relished by the California Indians.  Species mentioned include:  Ergates spiculatus Leconte and Prionus californicus Mots. (obtained from old logs and stumps of coniferous trees, and the latter also from various deciduous trees); Rhagium lineatum Olivier (beneath the bark of dead pine trees in the foothills and lowlands during the winter and spring); Xylotrechus nauticus Mann., Neoclytus conjunctus Lec. and other species of these genera (under the bark of various deciduous trees); Monochamus maculosus Hald., and M. scutellatus Lec. (in fire-scorched, injured and dead coniferous trees).  These and "countless" other kinds of cerambycid grubs from all kinds of vegetation were dug out and eaten, usually raw.

            Roust (1967: 56, 82) reported adults of Prionus sp. (probably californicus) in prehistoric human coprolites from Lovelock Cave in western Nevada.  The heads of the beetles were not found, "indicating that they were either bitten or torn off prior to ingestion, without chewing, of the whole beetle."

            See also Powers (1877a, cerambycids as a food of the Nishinam of Pacer County, California) and Zigmond (1986, as a food of the Kawaiisu).  It is surprising that, considering the extensive worldwide use of cerambycid grubs, and that hundreds of species occur in North America, there have been so few reports of their use as food here.

 

Curculionidae (snout beetles, weevils)

Rhynchophorus cruentatus (Fabr.), larva

 

            Ghesquièré (1947) indicates by the following (translation) that this species was consumed: "In his interesting History of Entomology, Essig (1931) devoted a chapter to edible insects in North America; however, he neglects palmicoles in it and does not cite (cf. Bowdman, 1888, and Kunze, 1916) the boring Rhynchophorus cruentatus of the saw palmetto and the date tree, whose larvae are nevertheless eaten by the natives."  The species occurs in Florida and nearby states in the southeastern United States, and southward through the Caribbean region.

 

Dytiscidae (predaceous diving beetles)

Cybister explanatus (author?), adult

 

            Roust (1967) reported adults of Cybister sp. (explanatus?) (pp. 56, 60, 84) in prehistoric human coprolites from Lovelock Cave in western Nevada, and C. explanatus and unidentified insect parts in prehistoric human coprolites from nearby Hidden Cave (p. 66).  As with the cerambycid adults mentioned above, the heads had been bitten or torn off prior to ingestion, without chewing, of the whole beetles.

            Also see Hrdlicka (1908, dytiscids as a food of the Tarahumare, southwestern U.S.).

 

Scarabaeidae (scarab beetles).

Cyclocephala dimidiata Burmeister, adult

Cyclocephala villosa Burm., adult

Phyllophaga fusca Froelich, adult

Polyphylla crinita Leconte, adult

 

            Indians in Madera County, California, were reported to have regularly eaten the adults of "the white-striped June beetle," Polyphylla crinita Leconte (Essig 1931).  Sutton (1988:79) reports (via personal communication from Nancy Peterson Walter) that the Owens Valley and Mono Lake Paiute roasted June beetles (possibly Phyllophaga fusca) as late as 1981.  These insects may have been used by other groups as well, but there are no other specific data. Sutton notes that other June beetles occurring in the desert areas of Arizona and California include Cyclocephala villosa and C. dimidiata.

 

Miscellaneous Coleoptera

 

            White grubs from the soil and weevil grubs in nuts are mentioned by Essig (1931) as food in California, but no specific observations are mentioned.  Essig notes that the larvae of leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae) and ladybird beetles (Coccinellidae) were probably not eaten because of their offensive body secretions.  According to Ebeling (1986: 368), the Cahuilla used as food an insect (probably a beetle larva) gathered from Australian saltbush (an introduced plant) when it bloomed.

 

                                                                        Diptera

 

Ephydridae (shore flies)

Ephydra cinerea Jones (= E. gracilis Packard), pupa

Ephydra macellaria Egger (= E. subopaca Loew), pupa

Hydropyrus (= Ephydra) hians Say, pupa

 

            There are numerous reports on the harvesting of shore flies, mainly the pupae of Hydropyrus (= Ephydra) hians Say, and their use was undoubtedly widespread.  They were traded, and some groups traveled long distances to obtain them.  They were available in great quantities and were storable enough to serve as winter provisions.  Sutton (1988: 45) notes that other species of shore flies were probably also used, particularly Ephydra cinerea Jones (= gracilis Packard) which coexists with H. hians in the Great Salt Lake and elsewhere.  The presence of two sizes is mentioned in one early ethnographic reference, and E. cinerea is much smaller than H. hians.  Although the larvae were frequently mentioned as the stage consumed, Ebeling (1986: 103-104) and others have noted that it is primarily the pupae that wash up on shore where collection occurs.

            Zenas Leonard, in his narrative of his travels written in 1839 (Wagner 1904: 166-167), writes of the Pai-utes (or Diggers) at Humboldt Lake:  "When the wind rolls the waters onto the shore, these flies [shore flies] are left on the beach - the female Indians then carefully gather them into baskets made of willow branches, and lay them exposed to the sun until they become perfectly dry, when they are laid away for winter provender.  These flies, together with grass seed, and a few rabbits, is their principal food during the winter season."  (Ebeling, 1986: 104, citing E. Strong, 1969, identifies Ephydra subopaca Packard as the species, and Great Salt Lake as the locality referred to in this account.)

            Fremont (1845: 154 [1988 reprint]) described [what lake?] a windrow 10-20 feet in breadth and 7-12 inches in depth, composed entirely of the "skins of worms, about the size of a grain of oats, which had been washed up by the waters of the lake."  Alluding to this later, Fremont tells of an old hunter, Mr. Joseph Walker, who informed him that:

 

            . . . wandering with a party of men in a mountain country east of the great California range, he surprised a party of several Indian families encamped near a small salt lake, who abandoned their lodges at his approach, leaving everything behind them.  Being in a starving condition, they were delighted to find in the abandoned lodges a number of skin bags, containing a quantity of what appeared to be fish, dried and pounded.  On this they made a hearty supper; and were gathering around an abundant breakfast the next morning, when Mr. Walker discovered that it was with these, or a similar worm, that the bags had been filled.  The stomachs of the stout trappers were not proof against their prejudices, and the repulsive food was suddenly rejected.  Mr. Walker had further opportunities of seeing these worms used as an article of food; and I am inclined to think they are the same as those we saw, and appear to be a product of the salt lakes.

 

            In the account of the 1859 expedition of Capt. J.W. Davidson to Owens Valley (Wilke and Lawton 1976), it is stated (p. 30):

 

            Another very plentiful addition to their means of subsistence is the Larvae of dipterous insects.  These are seen floating upon the surface of Owen's Lake in masses (agglomerated) about the size of a nutmeg, and the Indians gather them at this season as they are driven ashore by the winds.  They then dry them and separate, by threshing and winnowing, the shells, or skeletons, of the Larva from the grub, which they pack away in cakes.  I may safely say that I saw hundreds of bushels of this food, in process of preparation and prepared.  The Indians inform me that these deposits are of yearly occurrence. . . .

 

            Brewer (1930: 417), who visited Mono Lake in 1863 described it as follows:

 

            No fish or reptile lives in it, yet it swarms with millions of worms, which develop into flies.  These rest on the surface and cover everything on the immediate shore.  The number and quantity of these worms and flies is absolutely incredible.  They drift up in heaps along the shore -- hundreds of bushels could be collected.  They only grow at certain seasons of the year.  The Indians come far and near to gather them.  The worms are dried in the sun, the shell rubbed off, when a yellowish kernal remains, like a small yellow grain of rice.  This is oily, very nutritious, and not unpleasant to the taste, and under the name of koo-chah-bee forms a very important article of food.  The Indians gave me some; it does not taste bad, and if one were ignorant of its origin, it would make fine soup.  Gulls, ducks, snipe, frogs, and Indians fatten on it.

 

            Browne (1865: 111-113) described encountering a deposit of "worms" [actually the pupae of Hydropyrus hians Say], about two feet deep and three or four feet wide, which extended "like a vast rim" around the shores of Mono Lake, one of several highly alkaline lakes in the California-Nevada area:

 

            I saw no end to it during a walk of several miles along the beach. . . . It would appear that the worms, as soon as they attain the power of locomotion, creep up from the water, or are deposited on the beach by the waves during some of those violent gales which prevail in this region.  The Mono Indians derive from them a fruitful source of subsistence.  By drying them in the sun and mixing them with acorns, berries, grass-seeds, and other articles of food gathered up in the mountains, they make a conglomerate called cuchaba, which they use as a kind of bread.  I am told it is very nutritious and not at all unpalatable.  The worms are also eaten in their natural condition.  It is considered a delicacy to fry them in their own grease.  When properly prepared by a skillful cook they resemble pork 'cracklings.'  I was not hungry enough to require one of these dishes during my sojourn, but would recommend any friend who may visit the lake to eat a pound or two and let me know the result at his earliest convenience. . . . There must be hundrds, perhaps thousands of tons of these oleaginous insects cast up on the beach every year.  There is no danger of starvation on the shores of Mono.  The inhabitants may be snowed in, flooded out, or cut off by aboriginal hordes, but they can always rely upon the beach for fat meat.

 

            Palmer (1871: 426) states that the "ke-chah-re" from Mono Lake are dried and pulverized, then mixed with meal made from acorns, to be sun-dried or baked as bread, or mixed with water and boiled with hot stones for soup.

            Loew (1876: 189) states, in describing Owens Lake:  "Neither fish nor mollusks can exist, but some forms of lower animal life are plentiful, as infusoriae, copepoda, and larvae of insects."  Loew continues:

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