Chapter 27

 

 

                           OCEANIA: OVERVIEW, PAPUA NEW GUINEA, OTHERS

 

 

            Included in Oceania as treated here are Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea and the Pacific Islands in Melanesia, Micronesia and Polynesia.  The specific identity is known for 50 species used as food, but as indicated in the Regional Inventory, at least 84 species belonging to at least 68 genera, 35 families and 12 orders have been reported.  As in other regions, the total number of species used is probably much greater than indicated in the Inventory. 

 

Regional Taxonomic Inventory

 

  Taxa and staqes consumed                                                                                                   Countries

 

                                                                     Coleoptera

 

Carabidae (ground beetles)

Euryscaphus sp., adult                                                                                                            Australia

 

Cerambycidae (long‑horned beetles)

Agrianome spinicollis (author?)                                                                                              Australia

Appectrogastra flavipilis (author?)                                                                                        Australia

Bardistus cibarius Newman, larva                                                                                          Australia

Batocera sp., larva, adult?                                                                                      Papua New Guinea

Dihamnus sp., adult?                                                                                              Papua New Guinea

Endoxyla eucalypti (author?), larva                                                                                        Australia

Endoxyla sp., larva                                                                                                                 Australia

Eurynassa odewahni Pascoe, larva                                                                                        Australia

Hoplocerambyx severus (author?), larva                                                                Papua New Guinea

Mallodon costatus (author?), larva                                                                               New Caledonia

Mnemopulis edulis (author)                                                                                                    Australia

Prionoplus reticularis Wh., larva                                                                                    New Zealand

Cerambycid larvae/adults                                                                               Australia, New Caledonia

 

Curculionidae (snout beetles, weevils)

Rhynchoporus bilineatus (author?), larva, adult                                                      Papua New Guinea

Rhynchophorus ferrugineus (Oliv.), adult                                                               Papua New Guinea

Rhynchophorus ferrugineus papuanus (author?),

     larva, pupa, adult                                                                                                Papua New Guinea

Curculionid larvae                                                                                                                    Australia

 

Lucanidae (stag beetles)

Lucanid grubs                                                                                                         Papua New Guinea

 

Passalidae (bess beetles)

Passalid grubs                                                                                                         Papua New Guinea

 

Scarabaeidae (scarab beetles)

Anophlognathus viridiaenneus Hope, larva                                                                           Australia

Lepidiota vogeli Brenske, adult                                                                              Papua New Guinea

Oryctes centaurus (author?), larva, adult                                                                Papua New Guinea

Oryctes rhinoceros Linn., larva                                                                                   Solomon Islands

Oryctes sp., larva                                                                                                    Papua New Guinea

Scapanes sp., larva                                                                                                 Papua New Guinea

Xylotrupes gideon (Linn.), larva                                                                             Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                        Diptera

 

Edible fly adult                                                                                                                         Australia

 

Bibionidae (March flies)

"March flies"                                                                                                                            Australia

 

                                                                 Ephemeroptera

 

Mayfly adults                                                                                                          Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                     Hemiptera

 

Leaf bugs of various families                                                                                                    Australia

 

Coreidae (leaf‑footed bugs)

Leaf bugs                                                                                                                Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                     Homoptera

 

Cicadidae (cicadas)

Baeturia sp.                                                                                                           Papua New Guinea

Cicadina sp.                                                                                                                           Australia

Diceropyga sp.                                                                                                       Papua New Guinea

Cicadas/cicada manna                                                                                                             Australia

 

Cicadellidae (leafhoppers)

Leafhopper                                                                                                                             Australia

 

Coccoidea (scale insects)

Apiomorpha pomiformis Froggatt, gall                                                                                   Australia

Austrotachardia acaciae (Frogg.), lerp sugar                                                                         Australia

 

Psyllidae (psyllids)

Eucalyptolyma sp., lerp sugar                                                                                                     Australia

Spondyliaspis eucalypti Dobson, lerp manna                                                                          Australia

Psylla or lerp manna                                                                                                               Australia

Psyllina sp.                                                                                                                             Australia

 

                                                                   Hymenoptera

 

Galls (families unknown)                                                                                                          Australia

 

Apidae (honeybees)

Trigona spp., larvae, pupae                                                                                                    Australia

 

Formicidae (ants)

Camponotus consobrinus (author?), pupa                                                                              Australia

Camponotus inflatus (Lubb.), "honey‑pot"                                                                             Australia

Colobopsis grasseri (author?), pupa                                                                                       Australia

Melophorus bagoti Lubb., "honey‑pot"                                                                                   Australia

Melophorus cowleyi Frogg., "honey‑pot"                                                                                Australia

Melophorus midas (author?), "honey‑pot"                                                                               Australia

Myrmecia pyriformis (author?), pupa                                                                                     Australia

Myrmecia sanguinea (author?), pupa                                                                                     Australia

Oecophylla smaragdina (Fabr.), larva, adult                                           Australia, Papua New Guinea

Oecophylla virescens (author?)                                                                                              Australia

Various ants/ant pupae                                                                                            Papua New Guinea

 

Perilampidae

Trachilogastir sp., mulga apple (gall)                                                                                      Australia

 

Vespidae (wasps, hornets)

Wasp brood                                                                                            Australia, Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                                                Isoptera

 

Termites                                                                                                  Australia, Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                    Lepidoptera

 

Caterpillars/lepidopterous woodborers                                                                                     Australia

Social caterpillars and their pupae                                                                            Papua New Guinea

 

Cossidae (carpenter moths, leopard moths)

Catoxophylla cyanauges Turner, adult                                                                                   Australia

Cossus sp., larva                                                                                                                     Australia

Xyleutes amphiplecta Turner, larva                                                                                        Australia

Xyleutes biarpiti Tindale, larva                                                                                               Australia

Xyleutes boisduvali Herrich‑Schaeffer, larva                                                                           Australia

Xyleutes eucalypti Scott, larva                                                                                                Australia

Xyleutes leucomochla Turner, larva                                                                                        Australia

Zeuzera citurata (author?), larva                                                                                            Australia

Zeuzera eucalypti (author?), larva                                                                                           Australia

Additional cossid spp. larvae                                                                                                   Australia

 

Hepialidae (ghost moths and swifts)

Abantiades marcidus Tindale, larva, pupa, adult                                                                     Australia

Oxycanus spp., larvae, pupae, adults                                                                                          Australia

Trictena argentata Herrich‑Schaeffer, larva, pupa, adult                                                            Australia

Trictena argyrosticha Turner, larva, pupa, adult                                                                        Australia

 

Noctuidae (noctuids)

Agrotis infusa (Boisd.), adult                                                                                                  Australia

 

Psychidae (bagworm moths)

Panacela sp., larva                                                                                                                 Australia

 

Sphingidae (hawk‑moths)

Coenotes eremophilae (author?)                                                                                            Australia

Hyles lineata livornicoides (author?)                                                                                         Australia

Hawk moth adults                                                                                                   Papua New Guinea

 

Family unknown

Strigops grandis (author?), larva                                                                                             Australia

 

                                                                      Mantodea

 

Mantidae (mantids)

Hierodula sternosticta (author?)                                                                            Papua New Guinea

Tenodera sp.                                                                                                          Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                       Odonata

 

Zygopteran (damselfly) larvae                                                                                  Papua New Guinea

 

Libellulidae (common skimmers)

Dragonfly larvae                                                                                                      Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                     Orthoptera

 

Acrididae (short‑horned grasshoppers)

Chorticetes terminifera (author?)                                                                                              Australia

Locusta migratoria (Linn.)                                                                                     Papua New Guinea

Valanga irregularis (Walk.)                                                                                   Papua New Guinea

Grasshoppers/locusts                                                                               Australia, Papua New Guinea

 

Blattidae (roaches)

Cockroaches                                                                                                                           Australia

 

Gryllacrididae (wingless long‑horned grasshoppers)

Foliage crickets, tree‑hole crickets                                                                           Papua New Guinea

 

Gryllidae (crickets)

Teleogryllus commodus (author?)                                                           Australia, Papua New Guinea

 

Gryllotalpidae (mole‑crickets)

Gryllotalpa sp.                                                                                                       Papua New Guinea

 

Tettigoniidae (long‑horned grasshoppers)

Caedicia sp.                                                                                                           Papua New Guinea

Valanga sp.                                                                                                      Papua New Guinea

Edible small green grasshoppers                                                                              Papua New Guinea

 

                                                                   Phasmatodea

 

Phasmatidae (stick insects)

Eurycantha horrida (author?)                                                                                Papua New Guinea

Extatosoma tiaratum (author?)                                                                             Papua New Guinea

Phasmatinae spp.                                                                                                    Papua New Guinea

 

Phyliidae (leaf insects)

Mictis sp.                                                                                                               Papua New Guinea

 

 

            A great variety of insects is eaten in Papua New Guinea, one of which is the famous sago grub, Rhynchophorus ferrugineus papuanus which is not only widely eaten and widely marketed, but the center of annual "grub festivals."  They are "tender and sweet with a slightly nutty flavor," and are bought by Europeans as well as Papua New Guineans.  They are important nutritionally, making up 30% of the protein intake of some Sepik peoples (McQueen 1993), and are a good source of fat and other nutrients such as iron and zinc.  The grubs breed in the rotting pith of sago palms, and Mercer (1994) has described in detail the production process.  It is one of the better examples  of environmentally efficient food production, and the grubs are a significant source of rural income.  They are important not only in Papua New Guinea; according to Oliver (1989), sago grubs are among the wild biota most widely eaten by Pacific islanders.  

            Another environmentally efficient system, although on a smaller scale, is described by Mercer (1993).  In the Gabensis logging area near Lae, PNG, villagers harvest large numbers of the cerambycid grub, Hoplocerambyx severus, from Anisoptera polyandra logs.  To indicate abundance of the grubs,  Mercer mentions that he was able to  extract nearly 100 grubs from a single log in little more than 15 minutes.

            Orsak (1993a) laments that New Guineans, to their economic and nutritional disadvantage, are coming to believe that eating insects is "bush behavior" and something to be discarded in their progress toward development.  But it is obvious from the writings of researchers and educators who are familiar with the country that insects are an important part of the diet of Papua New Guineans.  Mercer (1993) states that, "Nutritional programs in the future should recognise this fact." 

            In Australia, there is a voluminous literature on the insects used as food by the Aborigines.  The use of insects was widespread if not universal (Waterhouse 1971), partly because, in the harsh environment of Australia, insects were at times almost the only available foodstuffs, and partly because some were regarded as special delicacies. Some of the edible species are represented on totems and in ceremony, myth, song and art (see Spencer and Gillen 1899, Bodenheimer 1951, Strehlow 1971, and Roheim 1974, among others).  Among the most prized insects as food were witchety grubs (Cossidae), the bogong moth (Noctuidae), the bardee larva (Cerambycidae), honeypot ants, honey and brood of the stingless bees and the sweet manna of various lerp insects.

            Calvert (1894) noted that whereas intelligent, well-armed white people will die of hunger in the desert, the native will find a sufficiency of food.  Tindale (1953) states that, "Aborigines with access to witjuti grubs usually are healthy and properly nourished . . . Women and children spend much time digging for them and a healthy baby seems often to have one dangling from its mouth in much the same way that one of our children would be satisfied with a baby comforter."  Similarly, Mountford (1946) provided a photograph of a native baby, "fat and saucy," who "thrives on a diet of mother's milk, white grubs, and honey ants," and Mountford emphasizes that the child's home is in the Mann Range "where previous travelers' reports indicated that the country was too bad to support even aborigines."  Nutrient analyses of witchetty grubs (James 1983) show a protein and fat content of 15.1% and 19.2%, respectively.  The roasted grubs are delicate and nutty in flavor (Waterhouse 1971), similar to scrambled eggs, roast pork, or bone marrow.  Several other grubs are also considered delicious, such as the "marrow-like" bardi (Bardistus cibarius) and other cerambycid species and hepialid grubs such as Trictena argentata which tastes like "the baked skin on roast pork."

            The bogong moth was also very important nutritionally.  The moths breed at lower elevations in New South Wales and southern Queensland, but moths of the spring generation migrate to the mountains where they aestivate for several months in vast assemblages on the granite outcroppings (Common 1954). They were a favorite food of upland Aborigines, who came from long distances and camped for two or three months each summer while collecting, cooking and feasting on the moths.  Helms (1895), Jardine (1901), Flood (1980) and others have described how this moth diet rendered the Aborigines fat, sleek and in excellent condition, remindful of similar accounts from South Africa pertaining to the effect of termites or locusts on indigenous populations.  The fat content of the summer-aestivating moths is high, abdomens of males averaging more than 61% and of females 51% on a dry weight basis (Common 1954).  The flavor is described as like burnt almond or walnut.

            As in other arid regions, sweets such as Trigona honey, lerp manna, and honey ants were much prized by the Aborigines.  Of honey ants, Basedow (1904) stated, "The natives are passionately fond of these little luxuries of the bush and spend hours collecting the same."  Considerable digging, often to a depth of 4-6 feet, is required to unearth the ants, and Spencer (1928 I) remarks that, "in some places the whole surface of the ground was turned over, just as if a small army of prospectors had been at work."  The work is done mainly by women and children.  Conway (1985b) reports that, in order to avoid destroying the colonies, the nests are only partially dug up, thereby preserving a valuable resource.

            The influence of European intrusion is discussed by Macfarlane (1978) who says, "The overall picture of these [hunter/gatherers] as they made contact with European foods and culture, was that of well fed infants and adults."  He mentions that social organization, the sharing with other members of the group anything that was caught, also tended to reduce malnutrition.

            Finlayson (1943) was impressed by the generosity of the native people in matters of food distribution, all food obtained becoming the common property of the group.  It seems probable that this admirable attitude of sharing was important for surviving under the harsh conditions in which these people lived.  Cutter (1978) also discusses problems of assimilation and reasons why people are moving back to traditional areas, thus reinforcing traditional culture although most want to maintain a cash economy and 'white services.'

            An interesting recent development in Australia is the explosion of interest in native, or "bush tucker," foods, including insects such as witchetti grubs.  Scherer reported in the Christian Science Monitor (1991) that bush foods are "increasingly appealing to hotels and restaurants frequented by tourists," including the 19 motel Australian chain, the Country Comfort Inn which has made native foods the signature of its restaurants.  "Bush food has also taken to the air on Australian Airlines, and the Australian Broadcasting Corporation," while, "book stores are well-stocked with books on bush tucker."  Witchetty grubs are on the menu of the posh Rountrees on Sydney's North Shore, while Bush Tucker Supplies, in Sydney, supplies bush tucker to more than 40 restaurants across Australia (Pfeiff and Hutchison, The Globe and Mail [Canada], 1993) and exports bush tucker to Japan (Irvine 1989). 

 

 

                                                          PAPUA NEW GUINEA

 

 

            Von Miklucho-Maclay (1875, p. 70; vide Bodenheimer 1951, p. 135) stated:  "All insects without exception, especially big beetles, are eaten raw or cooked by the Papuans" [translation not yet available].  Hagen (1899; vide Bodenheimer, p. 135) also reported the consumption of insects by Papuans.  According to van der Sande (1907, p. 4), the Papuan eats practically any animal that is harmless, "for the Papuan has no aversion to anything on account of outward appearance."  Because, however, necklaces of chitinous exoskeletons were not observed, van der Sande presumed that beetles were not eaten.  He was also unable to verify the use of hornets' nests as a delicacy, as mentioned earlier by Biro. 

           

            According to Pospisil (1963a: 244; vide Oliver 1989:  241), the Kapauku in the Wissel Lakes area identify and eat more than 50 species of insects, along with three species of amphibians, and the eggs of numerous species of birds.  Clarke (1971:  92; vide Oliver 1989:  241) reports that insects are eaten by the Maring-speaking people in the Ndwimba Basin (Bismarck Range).  The much-relished grub called kima is eaten only by the men.

            Meyer-Rochow (1973) reported on the food habits of three groups of Melanesians, the Kiriwinians, the Chuave, and the Onabasulu, and tabulated the use of a wide variety of insects.  The Kiriwinians inhabit the Trobriand Islands.  They raise pigs and chickens, harvest primarily yam, taro, sweet potato, and coconut, and live on a balanced diet of fruits, vegetables, fish, and meat (mainly poultry).  The inland people consume less fish than the coastal people.  Kiriwinians living on the coast denied eating any insects and referred to the inland people as insect eaters.  Meyer-Rochow noted, however, that the coastal people know well which insects are edible, and some were seen eating the yellow leaf ant, Oecophylla smaragdina.

            The Chuave live in the central highlands of New Guinea and are part of the Chimbu people.  Sweet potato is the principal food, followed by taro, yam and banana.  Animals are eagerly hunted and pigs are raised, although slaughtered only infrequently.  The population density is high (approximately 100/mile2) and malnutrition and starvation are fairly widespread.  The Onabasulu live in the area north of Mt. Bosavi, and, until recently, were cannibalistic.  The principal foods are sago, cooking bananas, and taro, and protein sources including mammals, marsupials, wild birds, fish and crustaceans are readily available.  Pigs are raised and slaughtered when necessary.

            Apparent differences that were found in food insect use by the three groups may or may not be related to differences in human population density and/or adequacy of total food supply available to each group.  The Kiriwinians, with a population density that was intermediate, and who were in the best nutritional health of the three groups, used a variety of insects almost as great as that of the Chuave whose population density was highest and who were the poorest-off nutritionally.  The Kiriwinians used a greater variety of insects than did the lower density Onabasulu who appeared to have an equally adequate conventional food supply.  How closely "variety" of insect use can be equated with volume of insect use in this study, however, is not clear.  Also, as mentioned by Meyer-Rochow, only three weeks or less were spent with each of the three ethnic groups, and it is possible that some insects that were not in season may have been missed in the survey.

            Specific food insects used, as found by Meyer-Rochow, for the three ethnic groups are tabulated below under the appropriate orders and families.  From this study, Meyer-Rochow concluded:  "If the new Papua and New Guinea government can be persuaded not to accept the European attitude toward insects as human food, it would act to the benefit of vast numbers of natives. Instead of wasting resources in destroying certain insects often regarded as crop pests, the insects themselves should be used.  Quite often they represent a higher nutritional value than the vegetable that they have been eating...."

            Meyer-Rochow (1975) provides Kiriwina, Chuave, and Onabasulu terms for a number of insects, including some that are edible.  These are applied below under the appropriate orders and families.

            Dornstreich (1977, p. 254; author's Table III) tracked the number of occasions over a period of about 10 weeks in which the 18 members of one Gadio hamlet, classified by age and sex, engaged in various types of food-getting activity.  The eight adult males engaged in a total of 341 occasions:  gardening 168, sago making 27, gathering cultivated tree nuts and fruits 25, gathering wild tree nuts and fruits 8, gathering other plants 12, fishing 26, hunting and trapping 15, collecting grubs 33, and collecting other small animals and insects 25.  The five adult females engaged in 320 occasions:  gardening 186, sago making 33, gathering cultivated tree nuts and fruits 8, gathering wild tree nuts and fruits 16, gathering other plants 42, fishing 8, hunting and trapping 0, collecting grubs 10, collecting other small animals and insects 17.

            Apina (1979?) discusses the need for extension work on edible insects as a source of protein in Papua New Guinea. [This paper not yet seen]

            Meyer-Rochow (1982) notes that (translation):  "In a state such as Papua New Guinea, where until very recently there had been no intrusion into either the culture or the traditions of the people, eating insects is still common practice in many places, even today."

            May (1984) mentions that a variety of insects are collected and eaten, mostly by children. They include the larvae and adults of beetles, butterflies, moths, wasps, and dragonflies, and adult grasshoppers, crickets, stick insects, and cicadas. More detailed comment, when given, is included under the appropriate taxons below. May also mentions that the large orb weaving spiders of the genus Nephila are also considered a delicacy. They are plucked by the legs from their webs and lightly roasted over an open fire. Other species of spiders are also eaten.

            Meigs (1988, pp. 163-164) lists "food rules" (taboos) for eating various kinds of insects among the Hua, located in the Eastern Highlands Province of Papua New Guinea.  Unfortunately, only the Hua names are given for the insects.

            The use of insects as food on the island of Bougainville is mentioned by Oliver (1991, pp. 98-99):

 

The starch obtained from the pith of the trunk [sago palm] was a substitute food staple, fronds were the principal thatching material, the broad bases of branches were used as troughs, and rotting palm stumps crawled with choice edible grubs. . . Collecting edible insects was only an incidental activity. If people saw them they sometimes tried to catch them; there were no special implements involved. In addition to the sago grubs, which were regarded as a delicacy, the Siwai liked to eat beetles, white ants [termites?] - large and small - and certain kinds of spiders.

 

            Gillison (1993, pp. 125-126) describes how the Gimi in the Eastern Highlands Province use grubs or caterpillars in divination by cooking them with marsupials; the marsupials and insects are eaten after the ceremony.

            Orsak (1993a) comments as follows:

 

            Here in Papua New Guinea, we regularly eat insects, not necessarily cooked. The fare includes giant orb-weaving spiders, giant stinkbugs, and other exotica. The sad thing is, New Guinean villagers are coming to believe that this is 'bush kanaka' behavior, something to be discarded as they enter the developing world. More and more frequently, they are likely to forego this cheap source of protein in favor of expensive 'tinned fish' or corned beef. Status is a very important human need to be met in Melanesian culture, and buying, instead of collecting protein fits into the syndrome. But spending the little money they have on unnecessary things can be debilitating in a country where all school children must pay school fees, and thousands of villagers remain largely outside of the cash economy. Suffice it to say that I spend a lot of time lobbying people to stick to the bug-eating as one of their pathways to development!

 

            Mercer (1993) states that, in PNG, many species are eaten in one locality or another. The species he discusses are included under the appropriate taxa below. He concludes that: "Insects are an important, but largely unrecognised part of the diet of Papua New Guineans. Nutritional programmes in [the] future should recognise this fact." In a broader context, he concludes that the predicted world protein shortage could be ameliorated by using insect protein, but that an education program would be necessary "to overcome the taboos currently held in the West."

            Dr. Mercer, who, at the time was Senior Lecturer in Entomology at the PNG University of Technology, in Lae, commented (1995): "The majority of my students are keen consumers of a whole range of insects when they return to their villages during vacation time.  I have come to the conclusion that it is the West which is out of step in its aversion to insects as food!"

            Meyer-Rochow and Changkija (1997) report, without further elaboration, that additional research shows that the postulated correlation between number of insects consumed and human population density of the three ethnic groups studied by Meyer-Rochow (1973) is not valid.

 

                                                                     Coleoptera

 

            See May (1984) in Introduction.

 

Cerambycidae (long-horned beetles)